South Korea is a visual metaphor for a modern Asia. Here,
relentless growth goes hand in hand with the reverence of ancient culture. The Korean Wave or the Korean fever describes the world
wide interest in Korean Culture, television series and films of Hallyu, the
number of tourist arrivals in Korea has jumped significantly. Discovering Korea, from its heritage to Hallyu, in just
five days poses quite the challenge. But never fear. Searching for the ancient soul
behind the pop culture, squeezing in quick adventure, and visiting Korea’s
natural sights in five days is A can-do. From
touchdown at Incheon Airport in Gyeonggi-do (GEE-YONG-GI-DOH) one can get
around by train, bus or cab. Curved
like an inverted C hugging the nation’s capital Seoul, Gyeonggi-do Province is
the getway to South Korea. With
the other half of the Korean peninsla belonging to North Korea, one must start
with a little geography and history lesson at Paju city in Gyeonggi, south of
the 38th parallel.
The
ideological divide is a literal one at the DMZ, or the demilitarized zone at
Paju. Imiingak
(IM-JIN-GAK) was built right after the 1972
North – South declaration. This sprawling tourism complex houses relics of the
war and peace symbols. It also has parks, restaurants, and an observatory. For
South Koreans, the place is all about hope and unity. From the roof deck of the
Imjingak complex, one can view the hills and peaks of North Korea. The
forward moving Korean psyche is not one to dwell on the past, or on the
shortcomings of the present. Forever hopeful, each structure at the DMZ Freedom
Park represents the much-awaited reunification with the North. There
is Dorasan Train on the railway line meant to traverse the entire peninsula
from North to South. The
bell of peace, which will ring loud and clear when the gates of the North open. The
aptly named Bridge of Freedom. And
the many sculptures that depict families on both sides of the border reunited
once again.
Looking
to the future with optimism seems to be a common trait among all Koreans. One
discovers more and more as the Paju tour unravels. Ubi(YUBI)
Park is short for Ubiquitous Park, and the wordplay is instantly amusing. What
at first seems like a misnomer, the word ubiquitous is instantly appropriate
when used to describe the information system that will run the future city-
Paju Gyoha City. Still
three fourths under construction, it is the first city connected by a state of
the art information system called the ubiquitous system. Running
the city, from powering street lamps and digital outdoor entertainment , to
household basics, like preparing food and watching television, will all be
under a central computer --- the first of its kind in Korea, ad as the tour
proudly claims, the world.
Tucked
in the hills of Paju, Heyri Art Valley is a village where bohemian meets
utilitarian – an enclave for creative minds. This
community of writers, artists, movie directors, and journalist thrives on
creative self expression. All buildings in the town are use at least 60% of the
available space for culture or art. So,
the boxy, practical architecture common to houses and buildings all over South
Korea is redressed and reinvented in each museum, cafe, and shop at Heyri. A children’s bookstore is a museum, with fanciful and
well-loved characters from children’s stories on display. The eclectic, hip vibe of Heyri makes it a favorite spot for filming some of the
country’s top television shows. Hallyu fans can stop at Farmer’s Cafe, where
the popular series Boys Over Flowers was shot. Having
a cold war relic as a next-door neighbor, explains the national obsession with
progress, and all things creative. From
futuristic cities to places built to celebrate art, Paju lives up to it’s
slogan – the Land of Hope and the City of Peace.
Today’s Korea
is always looking forward, but it also reserves the glory of its past. When we
return, from the heritages to Hallyu, the proud Joseon Dynasty is remembered
throughout Gyeonggi-do. Day two of Korea in Five, and set out early and head to
Yang-ju, Gyeonggi-do Province. All is still, perfected for a morning walk.
Hardly a sound, except for the occasional rustling of leaves blown by the
mountain wind. This is the best time to visit MBC Dae Jang Geum Theme Park,
before touristy crowds take the authentic experience way. The gates come into
view, and instantly, you are transported back into Korea’s glorious era, 15th
century Joseon Dynasty. Dae Jang Geum is a popular television series based on
the life of the first female royal physician, Jang Geum (JANG-JOOm). A 200
square meter complex, the set is a faithful recreation of a palace during the
Joseon Dynasty. This is where Jang Geum won the heart of the Prince Min
Jeong-ho (MIN JONG-HO), and millions of viewers worldwide. Joseon wa the last
imperial and the longest ruling Confucian dynasty in Korean history. Walk along
the palace grounds to immerse yourself in the culture and architecture of the
era. The set is built in the low, colorful style characteristic of the Joseon
age. Each building comes complete with the tiniest details. The Suragan, or
Royal kitchen is where Surasang, or royal meal, was prepared.
A replica of the 12-course meal, ingredients, and ancient
kitchenware are on display. Visitors can complete this time travel experience
by trying on traditional costumes, like the court lady’s hanbuk, or a soldier’s
garb.
For
the utterly authentic Joseon Dynasty experience, head to the provincial capital
of Gyeonggi, Suwon. In the 1796 King Jeongjo (JHONG-JO) attempted to move the
national capital from Seoul to Suwon. He was so captivated with the city that
he built the Hwaseong Fortress here. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the
Hwaseong Fortress is an example of modern military architecture of that age. Old
fortofications in Kore were simple walls built of stone around town. The
construction of the Hwaseong changed that by incorporating solid military
ramparts, a defensive fortress, the town center and four major gates enclosing
the city. But more than just show of might, Hwaseong Fortress is a symbol of
filial piety. King Jeongjo built it to honor his father, King Sado, who was
murdered, locked alive in a rice chest for failing orders to commit suicide. Within
the walls, at the eastern foot of the hills of Paldalsan is Hanggeung, or the detached
palace. King Jeongjo spent his summers here away from Seoul, worshipping at his
father’s tomb. The collection of 22 buildings wa restored after most were
destroyed under the Japanese colonial period. Singpungnu, the main gate, is
from singpung, meaning new home town, indicating the love Jeongjo had for
Suwon. At Singpungnu today, visitors are treated to a performance, an example
of military sophistication during the Joseon age. The twenty four martial arts
were compiled in 1790 by Lee Deokmu and Park Jega, under orders ofJeongjo. The
text they produced was used to train soldiers a mixture of Korean, Chinese, and
Japanese martial arts. Rigorous training is required to execute these moves, an
if you’d like to play soldier, you’re better off trying your hand at
traditional archery by the main South gate. Be ready to pick a good number of
arrows though. It isn’t as easy as it looks.
Winding down at
the end of the day. Suwon Magically transforms from Fortress city to a modern
metropolis awash in neon glow. Shopping in downtown Suwon is an option, but no
before one fills up on a meal dating back again, to the dynasty’s glory days. Samgyetang
is chicken stuffed with rice and ginseng, and boiled in a broth of jujube
fruit, garlic, and ginger. Good old chicken soup this side of Asia. And like
all chicken soup recipes across the globe, samgyetang is believed to cure and
prevent ailments. Mostly served during the summer, the dish is best with a shot
of insamju (IN-SAM-JOO) or ginseng wine on the side. More on food Day 3. Korean
cuisine is known worldwide for the most distinct of dishes- kimchi. A pickled
vegetable dish, the most common type of kimchi is the spicy baechu (BAY-CHOO)
or cabbage variety. Kimchi is always a staple banchan (BAN-CHAN) or side dish
to any meal of the day. Kimchi can be eaten alone, wrapped in lettuce leaves
with meat, or even as soup. Rarig to know more? Get up close and personal with
this distinctive dish at Pungmi Foods, in Suwon. This isn’t your food field
trip. After a peek at the assembly line, you may just be treated to a hands-on
kimchi making class by Pungmi president Yoo Jung Im herself. Guided by her
expert hands, one can get on those plastic gloves and start making kimchi. The
ingredients are laid out on the table- cabbage, radish, salt, garlic, onion,
ginger, parsley and leaf mustard; pickled shrimp, anchovies, and fish sauce for
seasoning, and of course, hot red chili powder. Yoo Jung Im grew the business
from her own homemade recipe to a booming enterprise, so the queen of kimchi is
the best tour guide at the
On display are
the different varieties of kimchi. Chinese cabbage pohggi kimchi, where the
filling is spread on a pickled cabbage leaf. Mat kimchi, made from cut
cabbage
Chonggak, or radish kimchi. Even strawberry paste kimchi,
for those who like kimchi without the hot and spicy aftertaste. Kimchi is also a
lesson in geography. Kimchi from the southern region of Korea i mostly hot and
spicy, using fish sauce and shrimp. The colder regions of North usually d not
use fish sauce, and their kimchi is on the watery side. The upper north east,
Hamgyeong-do, is close to the sea. Kimchi here is seasoned with fresh fish and
oysters. It is a dish bone of necessity. Cold winters in ancient Korea forced
farmers to pickle their vegetables during the summer and autumn months, using
large earthen jars to store and ferment the vegetables. Before leaving Pungmi
Foods, visitors can also try on traditional Korean costumes, pose for pictures,
and of course, buy Kimchi. Travelers craving or the high-end shopping
experience at bargain prices will love Yeoju Premium Outlets. 126 luxury shops
and designer boutiques are housed here, with goods on sale for as low as seventy
percent off. Imagine snaring your favorite designer duds or trendy sneakers at
half the price!
Gyeonggi’s
proximity to Seoul also makes a quick day trip for souvenirs possible. On a
stroll through downtown Seoul, shop for one-of-a-kind buys, like wooden Korean
tops. For the kids, there’s Everland in the city of Yongin. A theme park at the
foot of the mountain.
Everland is the
ultimate playground.One can book rooms at Everland or spend the whole day
exploring. The rides are the park’s biggest attraction. The T Express is
Korea’s biggest wooden roller coaster, with a 57 meter drop. Not for the weak o
heart. Tamer rides are family favorites, and so is the Zoo-topia tour. After an
afternoon spent on rides, stay for some evening entertainment. A day of fun at
Everland is capped by a dazzling lightshow and a grand fireworks display.
If you’ve had
enough urban thrills, exit Gyeonggi to head to Jecheon City, Chungcheongbuk
Province for some quiet time. Up next, when Korea in Five returns. You’ve
learned about history, and had your dose of hallyu in the city. Now it’s off to
the countryside for a greener, calmer experience. Time for the wellness portion
of this travelogue. The only province without a coastline, Chuncheongbuk is
worth a visit because of the lake that encircles its cities its cities and
mountain ranges. Day four finds us travelling to the city of Jecheon. Located
on the northern region, Jechion lies between the Chayong and Sobaek mountains.
The lush, green landscape is a welcome reprieve from the freeway drive. Urimji
(YOO-RIM-JEE) is one of the oldest irrigation facilities in the country. Surrounded by weeping willows, the park is a favorite for early morning
joggers, and amateur anglers wanting to chill by the lakeside.
Jecheon is also
known as the home of the herbs. The rich limestone soil and coll clime of the
highlands are good for herb farming. The city’s first herb market dates back to
the Joseon dynasty, when herbs picked from Sobaeg mountain were brought down to
Jecheon to trade. One of the four major herb arkets in South Korea today,
Jecheon promotes this industry through its Wellness Festival, held every
September, at the Goamdong (GWAM-DONG) Jecheon airfield. The Festival is a
lively mix of herbariums, stalls hawking herbal remedies, free consultation for
traditional medicine and alternative therapy. For more of Jecheon’s famed
traditional healing, head to wellness retreats at the outskirts of the city. Here,
one can avail of a thorough check-up, consultation with the in-house doctor,
alternative therapies like acupuncture, and a Qi Gong class. To enhance the
meditative mood further, the Shrine of Paeron means “shaped like the bottom of
the ship.” This is the site of the first seminary in Korea, and served as
refuge for the early Catholics escaping persecution. One of the young leaders
of the Catholic church, Alexius Hwang Sa-yong hid in this cave in Pareon. It is
believed that he wrote Paek-so or silk letter, to the Bishop Guvea, recounting
eligious oppression in Korea and pleading for the Bishops’s help in rebuilding
the Catholic church in Korea. Hwang did not remain hiding forever. He was
executed for high treason, and was one of the eraly martys of the faith. Open
to people of all religions, beautiful lanscaped gardens and walkways make the
shrine a must visit, whether you’re soul searching or just nature tripping.
On the same
spiritual note, stop by the Nuengang Sot Dae museum by the CheongPung Lake Framed
by the Kuem Su mountain range, a row of wooden ducks or Sot Dae, are poised to
fly off the sky. These carved wooden ducks and wild geese first became popular
in Ko Cho dynasty. Symbols of hope, wealth and prosperity, the first Sot Dae
were made in So Do. Used in prayer rituals, the statues were considred sacred
messengers of the gods. An Ancient art preserved for today’s modern day wishes,
Sot Dae of all shapes and varietis are found in the shop and museum. Ending the
day at Jecheon may be spent shopping at the city proper, which, like any Korean
City, is a neon wonderland at night. But an alternative to bustling streets
would be waiting for the moonrise at the highlands of Jecheon. Or unwinding at
the Charcoal Sauna, where hot rooms of stone are naturally warmed by charcoal
kilns.
Relaxed enough?
Then end your Korean sojourn with a bit of adventure! Coming up next, when we
return. Your last day in Korea calls for a bit of adventure. Drive off from the
city streets until you find yourself sorrounded by water. Cross the Cheonpung
Lake and you have officially started your adventure in Jecheon. Book rooms at
the Hotel by the Lake and set off to CheongPung Park to try the highest Bungee
jump in Korea...if you dare.
There’s also a
giant swing, and the ejection seat for those who can’t handle the 62-meter
drop. But this also isn’t for the timid.
A tamer, calmer
experience would simply be soak u the view, catch the ferry boat, and take the
lake cruise. Blue on blue, Cheongpung lake mirrors the sky on cloudless days.
The lake circles the mountain ranges of Mt. Geumsusuan (JOOM-SOO-SUWAN) all the
way to the Oksunbong and Gudambong peaks. If you like to view the peaks from a
higher vantage point, then drive around the valley to Mt. Bibongsan Paragliding
field.
A mono rail
with open air seats and a wooden boxed cart takes visitors about three hundred
meters up the paragliding field. And then, one finally gets the bird’s eye view
of CheongPung lake and the surrounding mountain range. It is fitting that after
a five-day run of Korea, one ends at the highest peak, where the rest of the
peninsula is but a speck below. And you see, stretching far and wide, out to
the ocean, the soul of Korea calls out to travelers swept by the fever, just
like you
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