Great adventures
often begin where well-trodden roads end. In the region of Mindanao in southern
Philippines, that road ends in Surigao del Sur, home to over half a million
warm gracious people. The province , which borders Surigao del Norte and the
Agusan provinces is best explored by tracing its eastern coastline that faces
the Pacific Ocean.
The earliest way to reach Surigao del Sur is to take an
hour’s flight from Manila to Butuan City in neighboring Agusan del Norte,
followed by a 20 minute ride to the souithern city of Bislig, where the journey
to amazing sights and sound begins. One of two lone cities in the provinve, the
so called Booming City bythe Bay has all the requisite infrastructure of a
m,odern community, yet it still exudes the quiet laidback charm of a small
town.
Only 60,000 live
here, where past fortunes were built on a paper mill that was once Asia’s
largest. Now, the city taps into its wealth of human talent and ingenuiity---and
the rewards are certainly sweet. From caramelized banana chips, called
pinasugpo, to wild honey and home-made peanut butter these delicacies that woo
the tastebuds are popular local specialties. Zbisliganions also produce
handcreafted home and fashion accessories made from organic products, such as
rattan and coconut shells, After all, this is a land that Mother Nature has
abundantly blessed. And in Nislig, she
has created herpiece de resistence arguably, the country’s most breathtaking
waterfalls. Stretching 95 feet acros and rising 55 feet high, Tinut-An falls
has rightly earned the monicker, The Niagara Galls of the Philippines. Against
a lush forest backdrop a curtain of water drops in a series of tiers, setting a
stage for a dramatic show where color shimmer through vains of mist. Visitors
can take a rafter as close venture as close as they want to this marvel of
nature, or admire it from a distant across the foot bridge. Next to sun-dappled
waters, cottages tucked unto the surrounding hills offer a cool respite, and an
opportunity to spot one of the many exotic birds that inhabit the forest The
locals take Immense pride in Tinuy-An Falls. Every day, a crew from the village
keeps the grounds and water clean.
If you’re planning
to spend a night in Bislig, the cozy Paper Country inn would accommodate your
needs nicely. Offering friendly rates for as low as $15 a night, the place is
ideal for budget travelers.It is also a wi-fi free zone. North of Bislig, a
river runs pure and deep, it’s crystalline glistening in a stunning shade of
blue. They called it the Enchanted River
of Hinatuan. Here, where a thick of forest towers on one side, and a craggy
wall of rock rises from a clear basin, it’s almost easy to believe that this
place is indeed mystical. Folk tales tell about two strange women with long
blonde hair and a man in green having seen in water,before vanishing into thin
air. Spirits are believe to guard this river, which is also why no one dares
swim in it after sunset. The 600-meter long river also teems with a variety of
fish. At scheduled times throughout the day, visitors gather around the lagoon
to witness a feeding frenzy. These scaly freeloaders nay shy away from a
complimentary meal: however, the natives claim that no one has ever caught one
of these creatures by hand or by spear.
Myth or magic,
what is certain is the irresistible zallure of this local wonder, a scheduled
oasis that invites the visitors for a refreshing dip. Divers brave enough to
explore its depths would find jets from undergroung spring and hidden caves
that tuunel for several kilometers. After a swim, visitors can relax and enjoy
their packed lunch in shaded tables near the river. The town of Hinnatuan is
also a model for green environment. In 2010, it was declared winner of the Zero
Basura Olympics, a nationwide search fot towns ande cities with the most
innovative and effective approach to waste management. The proof is right here
at the Hinnatuan Eco Park. It’s not only a popular spot for locals who want to
unwind aand bask in the cool breeze, it’s also the site where trash is
segregated and processed. Here, residual waste is transformed into paving
blocks and hollow blocks for building construction. Old tires are recycled into
unusual lawn chairs, and biodegradable waste is transformed into fertile
compost that nourish the many mahogany trees in the park. Homes and
establishments are recquired to segregate their garbage. Hinatuan also observes
a strict “no plastics” ordinance in public markets.
That means bringing your own reusable bag when you go
shopping. If you’re looking for sandy beaches, plenty of sun, and a little
privacy, just two towns away from Hinatuan is San Agustin, where the Britania
Group of Islets beckon like jewels in the sea.
Rent a pump boat
to take you on a tour of nthe 13 bislets, some of them rivalingtheb best
beaches in the country. But each of them is an unique pocket of paradise. Here,
you can laze on the shadow of limestone cliffs. Or sink nyour toes into sand as
fine as powder. With no crowds and hawkers to hog the view, the islets offer a
quite escapefrom the rest of the maddening world. By sunset, San Agustin
noffers a different kind of paradise, one that will satisfy your cravings for
fresh seafoof. Mcarthur’s mBeach Resort, where visitors can stay for the night,
serve up local favorites, like grilled fish, squid, and seashells called
limahan.
In the town of
Cagwait, a homegrown company with humble roots has made a name for itself by
producing objects from ironwood, mlocally called “magkono” It’s a sturdy tree
that’s known forfor its exceptionally density. At VG Lambo Enterprises,
craftsmen with years of experience create everything from home accessories bto
furniture, and art pieces. Each item bears the stamp of the artisan’s
nmeticulous attention to detail and his mastery over a difficult material. No
wonder, the products are highly demanded in major cities around the country,
like Manila and Cebu. Cagwait also produces everyday items fashioned from
abaca. The kabalikat Handicraft Association is a livelihood program for local
women who want to earn extra income, by weaving abaca fiber into handbags,
baskets, and other handicrafts.
An idyllic seaside
town with a deep crescent shaped coast Cagwait once captivated aviation’s
famous figure, Charles Lindberg. The legendary pilot nflew over the white sandy
cove during his visit to the country to campaign for wildlife preservation in
the 1970’s.
Amazed by how much
it reminded him of the beautiful Waikiki Beach in Hawaii, he landed to meet the
locals, and soon enough, Cagwait White Beach also became known as the Waikiki
of the Philippines.
A good place to
stay while in town is the government-owned inn. It’s situated along the White
Beach, where you can enjoy the sunrise before an invigorating swim.
If you’re looking for some
adrenaline-pumping action, head over the town of lanuza/
Every year in
November, surfing enthusiasts from around the country and as fas Australia
converge hereb to compete in Lanuza Surfing Festival, held at the sandy bottom
surfing ground, called Doot Poktoy. The waves barreling in from the Pacific
Ocean can swell to 10 feet or more. You can catch one these rollers and get the
ride of your life between October to April. One Australian visitor came to
shoot the curls and well..found Cloud 9. Leaving behind his old life from down
under…
…he built a new one here in Lanuza, and turned his passion
for the sport into a thriving business.
Richard Matthews is one of the few people
in the world who makes surfboards from bamboo, and possibly the only one who
uses abaca fiber. Bamboo fortifies the board, while abaca makes it lighter. Since
he started the green movement. his
beautifully-crafted boards have been making waves in the international market. The
boulevard that overlooks Doot Poktoy is—not surprisingly—a favorite hangout
spot for surfers and landbuggers alike. A rustic café fills up hungry stomach
with sweets and warm treats, like the popular kamoteng kahoy, or cassava. Next
door, a cottage welcomes backpackers for over night and long stays. If
you think Lanuza is just about surfing, it’s time to lose those flipflops and
get ready for a walk down the dark side.Just five kilometers away, another
world exists, where columns of stone hang like sharp fangs in a monster’s
gaping jaws. Where bats, snakes and a thousand other nocturnal creatures prey
and sleep in a cathedral of stalagtites and stalagmites.
Where a journey down the rocky, slippery
unknown is an adventure itself.
In 1942, the
adventure was made all the more treacherous for a group of Japanese soldiers
who hid within the dripping walls of the Compomento Cave. It was desperate bid
to escape the American’s during the war.
Also in Lanuza,
the Herrera Ancestral Homes endearingly
named White House, is a repository for charming objects freom the past. Built
in 1898, the residential museum tells the story of the town’s bygone era
through Spanish influenced architecture obsolete everyday items and religious
artifacts. Before leaving lanuza, go for a drink or two at the popular
sanctuary. S a panoramic view of sitting in ther outskirts of town , the
restaurant serves up a selection bof fine bec]verages in a coazy ambience, the
perfect setting to enjoy a panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean.
In recent years,
Surigao Del Sur has been quietly carving itself a niche in eco-conservation. And
its posterv child is Cantilan, the only town in the 5-municipal region of
CarCanMadCarLan that advocates a firm anti-mining position.
In 2011, Cantilan
garnered the Blue Pride Award for inspiring Conservation, given by RARE a
leading American organization that promotes biodiversity in global communities.
Two of its territories were also named finalists in the search for best
practices of effectively managed MPAS or Marine Protected Areas in the
Philippines, a recognition handed out by the MPA Support Network.
One of the
finalist is Ayoke Island, a 30 minute boat ride from ythe Cantilan port. Fringed
with sugar-fine sands and lofty palm trees, the two kilometer spit of land in
the Pacific Ocean seems to be a place that time forgort. Children greet
visitors with an effusive warmth and innocent trust that is foreign to city
dwellers.
Here, life is
simple, but it has its perks. There are no crowded streets. Food is plentiful,
And although the school consists of nothing more than two classrooms, you’ll be
hard pressed to find a better playground than this—the immense and
ever-changing sea.
These protected
waters around Ayoke are flourishing ecosystem, where a vast coral garden plays
host to a rich and diverse marine life. Only 800 people or 98 families live on
the island. One of them is a Frenchman who fell in love with the place and
decfided to claim a slice of paradise. Not
far away lies in the marine protected area og General Island, the other feather
in Cantilan’s cap. Guests can set up camp at the Bagong Banwa or Double B White
Beach. No trip to Surigao del Sur is complete without a visit nto the capital,
Tandag, a coastal city a few minute’s drive from bislig. It holds the
distinction of also being the former capital of ancient Surigao, distinsct that
sprawled across two Surigaos and other areas of the adjacent provinces back in
1650.
The best way to
see the town is to climb to the summit of Our Lady of Lourdes Grotto. From
there, you get a 360-degree view of the entire city, including the twin islands
of Linungao. These forest-covered mountains are home to colonies of bats that
burst out of caves in clouds of black just before the sun sets.
By nightfall,
Tandag’s other nocturnal habitants come out to play. Favorite haunts include
the succinctly named, Bar, a rousing street-corner joint for beers and
billiards… And the laidback meeting place called, Café la Jarra where you can
linger over a cup of flavored coffee with friends, and surf online to your
heart’s content.
When the locals
want to spend a little more nfor a lavish meal that hits the spot, they head to
the Gold Bar. With its gilded façade, loft-structured interiors and exposed
wooden beams, the restaurant serves up a feast for the eyes…as wlee as
thepalate.A mouthwatering menu of native and internationally inspired dishes
will please the food lovers and non-foodles alike.Tandag is a bustling place
for locals who enjoy their own brand of R&R---From the best pizza dive by
the river, aptly named Da port Bar…
…to the newly opened Gelato Thrill Café, a quaint spot for
casual bites and seriously good ice cream halo-halo
If you’re looking
for a place to stay in the city, there no need to sweat it. Tandag has dozens
of accommodations to choose from, including the newest addition, Villa Maria
Luisa Hotel. Ideally located in the heart of Tandag the hotel offers superior
amenities in a comfortable elegant environment. If you prefer a seaside
retreat, check in at the Mahayag Beach Resort. Nestled on one end of the cove
in the village of Buenavista, the place
is a quite escape where you can unwind and just let nature work her
magic…
…as she does
in Cagwait, Hinatuan and Bislig.
In a land familiar
to only a few travelers, she has been profoundly generous, creating beauty and
raw magnificence that are uniquely and undeniably Surigao del sur.
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